Yayoi Inoue, director at the Kao Beauty Research & Creation Center.
20 May 2024 --- All eyes are on Asia as the personal care and beauty industry seeks to tap this growing, lucrative market. While many Western trends have traveled east across the oceans, Kao Corporation emphasizes that Asian consumers quite often look to neighboring countries rather than Western ones for beauty inspiration.
Personal Care Insights explores Asian beauty trends with Yayoi Inoue, director at the Kao Beauty Research & Creation Center, to learn more about the ever-evolving demands of East and Southeast Asian consumers and how companies like Kao are answering the call for innovations in skin and sun care.
Asian beauty is often seen as one giant category. Could you explain why it is essential to understand the regional differences and consumer dynamics?
Inoue: Beauty trends in Asia are heavily influenced by countries like Japan and Korea, with their impact extending beyond East Asia and into Southeast Asia. In fact, their influence is particularly strong in Thailand. Western beauty trends, on the other hand, are less important in the region. Even in cosmopolitan cities like Shanghai, consumers are more likely to look to Japan and Korea for beauty inspiration than France or the US.
Japan’s unique makeup culture has significantly shaped beauty trends in other countries. However, in recent years, K-beauty has also gained interest in Japan, especially among Generation Z, mainly due to the influence of K-pop and Korean dramas.
Classic and new beauty ingredients are increasingly in the spotlight, with more consumers interested in learning more about personal care and beauty products. How has that influenced Kao, especially in regard to skin care formulations?
Inoue: There has been a surge in the dissemination of information about beauty ingredients, particularly in Korea, a leading beauty powerhouse. The easy accessibility of ingredient information online has also contributed to this trend. Moreover, using face masks during the pandemic has increased skin irritations, creating a heightened interest in the ingredients used in skin care formulations. As a result, there is now a growing emphasis on beauty ingredients. There is a lot of interest in new ingredients like Bactiol, a retinol substitute, but classic ingredients like collagen, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid are also enjoying renewed attention.
Kao introduced a potion and high-tech diffuser to apply a thin veil on dry skin overnight.
Kao researchers were pioneers in recognizing the importance of hyaluronic acid for skin care. Since 1981, the company has been extensively researching hyaluronic acid and has published the largest number of publications on the subject. The products from Kao’s global prestige brand, SENSAI, are formulated with Koishimaru silk, a signature ingredient that stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid. SENSAI has recently established its first flagship store in Shanghai and plans to expand its presence in China.
How about heightened skin awareness?
Inoue: During the COVID-19 pandemic, the “at-home beauty” trend was quite popular as people spent more time indoors. However, as the world has opened up again, this trend has slowed down. Nonetheless, people continue to pay close attention to their skin care routines, with many opting for aesthetic dermatology clinics that provide immediate results, especially to combat issues like rough skin caused by wearing masks and visible signs of aging such as wrinkles, spots, and sagging skin that become more prominent when masks are removed. The use of dermatology clinic procedures is on the rise every year as people are becoming more open due to the endorsem*nts of celebrities on social media.
Kao introduced a new skin care concept called “Wearable Stratum Corneum Care” to meet the increasing demand for high-performance skin care, addressing concerns about severe skin dryness. We also have a potion and a high-tech diffuser that applies an ultra-thin veil on the skin to moisturize during the night. The products are sold by Curél, Japan’s number one brand for sensitive, dry skin.
Could you elaborate on the use of sun care products and how they vary from country to country in Asia?
Inoue: The demand for sunscreens in Asia is increasing rapidly, following the global trend. The December 2023 Asian Cosmetics Awareness Survey conducted by Kao indicates that the usage rate of facial sunscreen varies across different Asian cities. The graph shows that climate has little effect on sunscreen use rates despite the significant differences in climate between Southeast Asia and East Asian countries such as Japan and Korea. Factors such as
Kao says Thailand and Indonesia have high usage rates of cosmetics, resulting in more frequent use of sunscreens. differences in beauty ideals, skin color, clothing (e.g., hijab), and sun protection measures (spending more time indoors) contribute to the variation in sunscreen use. Countries such as Thailand and Indonesia have high usage rates of cosmetics, resulting in more frequent use of sunscreens.
In Japan, people have always been conscious of avoiding color irregularities or blemishes. That’s why the usage of sunscreens has been traditionally high in the country. Even in winter, when the sun’s rays weaken, the usage rate remains as high as 60%, as confirmed by the survey results shown in the graph. In recent years, the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays on the skin, such as photoaging, have been increasingly recognized globally. Moreover, with the rise of global warming, it has become even more essential to be cautious about wintertime sun exposure, which could contribute to the increased usage of sunscreens.
The market expansion of sunscreen products is significantly influenced by the development of new sunscreen formulation technologies by various manufacturers. The use of advanced formulation and film formation technologies has improved UV protection. Furthermore, sunscreen products with additional functions like moisturizing and anti-aging care have been introduced.
Kanebo Cosmetics’ ALLIE sunscreen brand creates sunscreens doubling as makeup, including UV blush products for sunburn-prone cheeks and color-tuning UV products that cover pores and correct skin tone.
What excites you most right now about beauty trends in Asia?
Inoue: Japan’s longstanding beauty culture emphasizes cleansing, moisturizing and protecting the skin’s health. By incorporating innovative technology, it has become a leading cosmetic powerhouse that has influenced other countries. In recent years, K-beauty has gained popularity in Japan, particularly among Generation Z, due partly to the influence of K-pop and Korean dramas. Beauty has become increasingly popular in Asia, with China and Thailand also making significant progress.
By Anita Sharma
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